Our planters are suitable for growing most types of leafy vegetables , smaller herbs and microgreens. Example of leafy vegetables you can grow are our popular local Asian greens Pak Choi, Kailan, Chye Sim, Nai Bai and parsley.
Most herbs grow large. While you can definitely grow small herbs like parsley and coriander in our planter, it is not ideal for bigger herbs which prefer bigger and deeper pots with ample space around the pots.
Soaking your seeds in tap water before planting is quick and easy trick to cut down time to germination. Vegetables seeds are dry and some comes with hard coat.
Firstly, soaking gives the seeds a fast boost of moisture content. The high level of moisture is an alert for the seeds to start sprouting. Secondly, soaking leaches away germination inhibitors that reside in some of the seeds. These germination inhibitors initially designed to prevent the seeds from germination within the fruits.
The general guideline is just soak them overnight and sow them next day morning. You can take 12-24 hours as a gauge or take them out as long as you see that the seeds are swelled up.
Reduce your soaking time accordingly if you are soaking them in lukewarm water. You do not want to overdo it. Oversoaking can lead to seed rot and decomposition.
For small herbs like parsley or coriander, always do direct seeding into the pods. Just leave some tiny gaps in between seeds.
For leafy veggies, it is ok to just direct seed into the pods now that you have just gotten your brand new vertical planter. You might still want to standby a few extra seedlings by starting a few seeds in the seed tray. In case there are a few seeds that fail to germinate or don’t survive its fragile seedling stage, you can fill up those empty pods with the extra seedlings.
The seed tray is also useful for you to schedule your crops and maximise your yield. Start your seeds 2 in the trays 2 weeks before your veggies are to be harvest. Transplant your seedlings into the pods and you just save 2 weeks of times!
6. What is the benefit of starting my seeds in seed trays and going through the trouble of transplanting them later?
- Easily place the trays of seeds in an ideal location to give the seedling the most favourable conditions for germination- one that has neither direct sunlight nor strong wind to avoid drying up the top soil easily. Moisture and warmth are 2 essential conditions for growth.
- Pick only the healthiest and strongest seedlings to occupy the precious estate in the pods. You avoid having a few empty pods in your garden due to not viable seeds or weak seedlings, and
- Save time by starting your seeds earlier before your veggies are harvested and the pods are free up
- Our biodegrable paper pulp seed trays/pots can also save you the worry of seedlings suffering from transplanting shock. You can directly plant the cells or the seed pots into the planter without damaging or shocking the fragile young seedlings.
This depends on the type of plant you intend to grow.
For small herbs like parsley or coriander, sprinkle the seeds thinly and uniformly onto the planter.
For most leafy veggies, we recommend 1-2 seedlings at most, stagger them at different corners of the pods to avoid overcrowding as they grow bigger. This ensure that your veggies have enough room to grow into adult. It also reduce the risk of pest having good ventilation.
Covering the seeds with soil creates darkness which is another condition besides moisture to trigger seed germination. However, a thick layer of soil can smother the seeds to death. Their reserved energy in the seed coat is limited.
The general rule of thumb is to plant seeds twice as deep as their size.
Everyday or as often as needed. Always keep your seed tray or pod moist when you are germinating seeds. As soon as you see the top soil is drying up, mist it.
Transplant when you see 4-6 leaves have grown on the seedling.
Seeds can take from 2 up to 21 days to germinate depending on the variety. Google to see how long your seeds are expected to germinate before you start worrying.
Improper soil temperature (eg. you used a plastic egg tray that gets the soil heat up too much during the day), moisture (eg. Dry soil or overwatering), or a combination of the two, are the majority of the reasons that seeds don’t germinate. Planting too deep and unviable seed are other common reasons.
Try to diagnose the reason and start anew.
Proper storage is important to extend your seeds’ shelf life. Ensure your seeds are thoroughly dry, keep them in an airtight container in your refrigerator. Humidity and heat are archenemy to the seeds’ shelf life.
With proper storage, seeds can last from 2 up to 5 years depending on the variety.
As the plants grow into full greens and with our self-watering system, refill the water tank about once a week. Can’t keep track of the time, just ensure that the water indicator is at the FULL level.
Otherwise, stick your index finger into your potting soil up to the knuckle. If you can feel moisture, do not water. If the soil feels dry, give the soil a good shower.
Once the seeds germinate and you start to see the seedling appear above the soil, expose them to get at least 4 hours of sun a day and ensure it is below 31°C.
Fertilise your seeds right away won’t speed up your edibles’ growth. In the first 1-2 weeks, the seedlings don’t need anything other than water, warmth and light. They feed themselves off food stored in the seed. You do not want to waste your fertiliser at this stage.
Start fertilising when you see minimum 4 leaves appeared on your seedlings. Water your plants first, apply 1 teaspoon of our leafy veggie organic fertiliser by spreading them 4cm away from the stem. After that, water again.
Only use a slow-release organic fertiliser with our VegeGro garden. Chemical in liquid fertiliser may damage the structure of the planters.
For leafy veggies, fertilise once every 2 weeks. Always mark your last fertilised date with our plant labels to keep track of this important date.
For herb, fertilise once every 4 weeks is sufficient.
Fertilising occasionally is essential for sustaining plant health and vigour. However, overdoing it is detrimental or even deadly for the plants. Some signs of over fertilisation include yellow, burned and dry leaf margins, wilting and weakening of the plants.
Read your fertiliser label to understand the application dosage. For leafy veggies, the general rule of thumb is fertilise a teaspoon of granule per leafy veggie only during periods of active growth. Cut the dosage before and after that will make it less susceptible to over fertilisation.
Looking out for the term “potting soil” when buying your growth medium. However, it is highly recommended to add in perlite or leca clay balls to the mix. Your potting soil tends to become clayey and easily waterlogged, depriving the roots of oxygen.
Save yourself the trouble of buying and mixing your own perlite or leca balls to the mix by purchase this veggie potting mix we have specially picked for you. It comes with 10% perlite. It is lightweight and porous to promote root health.
Yes, of course. Try to revitalise it after every harvest or every 4 weeks, top up a layer of new soil or compost about 3 cm thickness on the surface.
You can get around this problem by sterilising your potting soil with hot boiling water. Boil water in a kettle, scoop all your soil in a bucket and carefully pour the water in until the soil is soaked.
When the water has cooled down, drain away the excess water and spread out the potting soil on a mat to dry.